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Day 20 – carquefou to Pornic

Monday May 23, 2011

We didn’t leave our comfy hotel until midday (check out time). It was another glorious day of sunshine. We cycled into Nantes and had a look around. Just another European city – seen one, seen them all.

It was a bland and industrial ride out of Nantes. I had been hoping for a scenic river cycle but this was not to be.

It was at 7pm we spotted the first camping ground for the day. It was a free campsite at the edge of a village. No showers but a toilet. We knew there was another campground in 20 kms so we decided to push on. It was a very hilly 20 kms and it was hard work pushing to make it to camp before the daylight ended. We made it to the camp by 8.30pm. We were so tired we didnt even bother cooking – just put up the tent and crawled inside.

Day 19 – Blain to Carquefou

Sunday May 22, 2011, 56 km (35 miles) – Total so far: 664 km (413 miles)

We continued along the unpaved path along the canal. We were both starting to get a bit bored with it now. The gravelled path is pretty hard on the bum, and the scenery doesnt change very much.

A couple of times the track ended and we had to backtrack and cross over the to the track on the other side of the canal. The French don’t signpost things very well.

There were no campgrounds on the path so we checked into a nice hotel beside a lake just outside Nantes. It was such a beautiful day and it seemed such a waste checking into a hotel. We much prefer sitting outside cooking our meal in the evenings. But – we took advantage of the free internet, the bath, and the half price Sunday rate!

Day 17 – Rieux to Blain(click to open route in new window)

Friday May 20, 2011, 45 km (28 miles) – Total so far: 608 km (378 miles)

Today seemed a difficult ride despite there being no hills. The heavy gravel path made it hard going and although we only did 45km – it was all gravel.

We saw a creepy frog.

We were knackered at the end of the day we were glad to find a campground at Blain, strong cowshit smell and all!

We camped next the the chateux.

We were so tired and our muscles so sore – we decided to stay here for two days.

Day 15 – Josselin to Malestroit (click link to open route in new page)

Wednesday May 18, 2011, 26 km (16 miles) – Total so far: 517 km (321 miles)

Today was another fine day of cycling on nice quiet roads until we turned onto what seemed like a minor road. It was narrow and there were no road markings at all, but cars and trucks were flying by at horrendous speeds.

Mike stopped at a bridge crossing a canal. There was a path alongside it. Then two touring cyclists came riding along the path on the edge of the canal.

I said to Mike we should get off this horrible road and follow that path along the canal. Our conversation went something like this:

Mike: But it’s not the way we are going

Jo: Who cares, we don’t have a route anyway and it looks like a nice ride.

Mike: But the GPS doesn’t see it as a road.

Jo: Those touring cyclists just came along there – it must go somewhere

Mike: But what if it turns into a dirt track like the english canals

Jo repeats: Those touring cyclists came along there – it must be ok.

At that moment three buses go flying past at horrendous speeds.

Jo: I don’t care – I’m getting off this shitty main road – let’s follow it and see where it leads us.

Mike: ok

This is the beauty of not have a set route or a set destination – we can go wherever our mood wants us to go.

Turns out the path is a popular cycle way which follows the canal for over 300km from Brest to Nantes. What a bit of luck to have stumbled onto it.

It was wonderful flat cycling, not having to worry about cars, trucks and buses.

We cycled through the narrow streets of the Medeival town of Malestroit.

We stopped at an amazing campsite right beside the canal just walking distance from the village. This was another fine example of the better the campsite the cheaper it is. It only cost 4.85 euros, it had toilet seats, and even a table for us to use!

We wandered into Malestroit and picked up supplies for dinner – sausages, potatoes and mixed veg, beer, and a chocolate desert.

Today was a struggle to get moving as we had Sunday off (day of rest etc). We decided to move away from the coast as the wind coming off the English channel was freezing, so we headed south in hope of finding warmer weather.

There seemed to be endless hills on our route, and having left the chilly sea breeze behind us, we actually worked up a sweat.

The route was also on a busy road with big scary trucks. We headed off the main road and forced the garmin to re-route us onto quieter roads. The garmin got his revenge by sending us up the hilliest routes possible. He’s about as vindictive as the lady in our Tom Tom!

We did a meagre 30kms before calling it a day and decided to stop in a hotel for the night. The campground was another 20 kms away and we just couldnt be bothered.

The hotel was in the middle of hicksville. We said we would like to eat in their restaurant. At 7.15pm the phone in our room rings, summoning us for dinner.

We arrive downstairs to a plate of salad consisting of potatoes, mushrooms, avocado, some fishy things (looked like that pickled fish you get in a jar) and a selection of meats and breads. There was also a carafe of red wine. Please note we did not order any of this and we have no idea how much it will all cost. It was yummy and we ate it all knowing this was only a starter.

Then the main course came out. It was a big blob of meat, with noodles and lettuce. It also was really yummy – but very filling.

Then came the cheese platter with a large selection of cheeses. We figured we were not expected to eat all of this.

Then they bought dessert – and Mike took two. We still arent sure whether he should have taken the custard with his cake. Guess we will find out in the morning on our bill.

Day 9 – Dinard to Saint Cast-le-Guildo (click to display route in new window)

Wednesday May 11, 2011, 26 km (16 miles) – Total so far: 340 km (211 miles)

Cycling with a hangover is not much fun. We spent the last couple of days at Ali’s campground in Saint Cast. It wasn’t open till the weekend so she was able to put us in a luxury cabin with toilet, shower and full kitchen with oven. They call this camping!

We found a supermarket which sold beer for 22c per can and this is to blame for the hangover. Beer is cheap in France and would be a great place to live if you were an alcoholic. We are moving to France next summer to run a campground.

Ali was still in the process of getting the campground ready for opening so Mike helped to build a few barbecues. He built so many it is starting to look like one.